It’s one of the finest loops in the Gaillac country, and one of the most demanding in this selection. From Puycelsi, a fortified village perched on its spur, the path drops into the Grésigne forest — a 3,500-hectare oak wood, a former royal forest where you can walk for hours under the trees without meeting a soul.
The route keeps changing character: the ramparts and heritage orchard to open, then the long forest immersion, and finally the Audoulou valley, a cool combe where the stream drops from pool to pool. This is a walk of shade and undergrowth, ideal when the plain is baking — but with 523 metres of ascent, it has to be earned.
Allow close to five hours, taking your time. Waymarking is decent, but the Grésigne is vast and its tracks look alike: carry a map or a GPS track, and water, as resupply points are rare once under the trees. On the way back, the final climb up to Puycelsi rewards the effort — the village reveals itself in stages, like a citadel.