Penne has to be earned. The village strings out along a rocky ridge above the Aveyron gorges, crowned by the ruins of a Cathar castle suspended over thin air. This nine-kilometre loop circles it from the heights, and shows what the main street never can: the site seen from outside, in all its improbable scale.
The route first climbs towards Roussergue and the causse, under the oaks, before reaching the Suquets promontory — the moment you’ll remember. From there the castle and its spur stand out right in front of you, the river winding two hundred metres below. The second half drops down to the Aveyron, which you follow in the shade of the cliffs before one last sharp climb back to the village.
Allow three and a half hours for 290 metres of ascent: nothing alpine, but real slopes, and little shade on the plateau. Skip high summer, carry water, and bring proper shoes for the final pull. This is water country too: it’s where the canoe descents of the Aveyron gorges set off, easily paired over a weekend with a stop in Bruniquel.